Is viscose a natural or synthetic fabric?

Viscose is semi-synthetic — it starts from natural plant cellulose (wood pulp) but undergoes heavy chemical processing. It has the breathability and comfort of natural fibre but is manufactured using chemicals like carbon disulfide. Lyocell (TENCEL) is the more sustainable version of the same concept, using a closed-loop process that recovers 99.8% of the solvent.

How much polyester in a blend is too much?

Even 30-40% polyester content noticeably changes how a garment feels — it adds that slick, insubstantial quality, reduces breathability, and makes the fabric pill faster. For comfort, look for garments where natural fibres (cotton, linen, wool, silk) make up at least 70% of the composition.

What does 'microfibre' mean on a label?

Microfibre is almost always polyester — it's a marketing term for ultra-fine synthetic fabric. Despite the soft-sounding name, it's plastic. You'll see this most often on bedding and cleaning cloths.

How to Read Clothing Labels: A Complete Guide to Fabric Composition

Clothing labels tell you exactly what you're buying — if you know how to read them. Most people don't. Here's a complete guide to understanding fabric composition.

The Quick Reference

Natural Fibres (the good stuff)

Cotton — breathable, absorbent, soft. The most common natural fibre.
Linen — exceptionally breathable, strong, gets softer with age.
Wool/Merino — temperature-regulating, odour-resistant, moisture-absorbing.
Silk — smooth, temperature-regulating, hypoallergenic.
Hemp — extremely durable, antibacterial, sustainable.
Cashmere — soft, warm, lightweight. (Check quality — cheap cashmere pills fast.)

Semi-Synthetic (plant-based but chemically processed)

TENCEL / Lyocell — from wood pulp via closed-loop process. Breathable, smooth, sustainable. This is the best of the semi-synthetics.
Modal — from beech trees. Softer than cotton, good breathability. Improved processing vs viscose.
Viscose / Rayon — from wood pulp. Feels like a natural fibre but processed using harsh chemicals (carbon disulfide). The least sustainable semi-synthetic.
Bamboo — usually bamboo viscose/rayon (chemically processed). Look for "bamboo lyocell" for the better version.

Synthetic (plastic-based)

Polyester — made from petroleum. Cheap, durable, traps heat and odour.
Nylon / Polyamide — petroleum-based. Strong but non-breathable.
Acrylic — petroleum-based. Cheap wool substitute. Pills badly, sheds the most microfibres of any fabric.
Spandex / Elastane / Lycra — provides stretch. 2-5% in a garment is fine. 20%+ means the garment is mostly stretch fabric.

What the Percentages Mean

Fabrics are listed in order of proportion — the first fibre listed is the dominant one.

"100% Cotton" — what it says. The gold standard for basics.
"60% Cotton, 40% Polyester" — a blend. The polyester noticeably changes the feel, breathability, and pilling behaviour.
"95% Cotton, 5% Elastane" — cotton with stretch. The small amount of elastane is fine — it adds flexibility without compromising comfort.
"100% Polyester" — pure plastic fabric. Maximum heat trapping, odour retention, and microplastic shedding.

Watch the ratios. Brands are gradually shifting blends — what was 80/20 cotton-poly five years ago is now often 60/40 or 50/50. The label still says "cotton blend" but the feel gets worse each season.

Marketing Terms That Hide Polyester

"Microfibre" — almost always polyester
"Performance fabric" — usually polyester or nylon with fancy branding
"Wrinkle-free" / "Easy care" — often means polyester blend or chemical treatment
"Vegan leather" — usually PVC or polyurethane (both plastic)
"Eco-friendly polyester" — still polyester, still sheds microfibres, still takes 200+ years to decompose

The "Organic" Distinction

"100% organic cotton" — grown without synthetic pesticides, certified (look for GOTS).
"Made with organic cotton" — can mean as little as 5% of the cotton is organic. The rest could be conventional cotton or even blended with polyester.

Is a Small Amount of Elastane OK?

Yes. 2-5% elastane/spandex in an otherwise natural-fibre garment is normal and doesn't meaningfully change the fabric's comfort or breathability. It just adds stretch.

But be cautious above 10% — that much stretch fibre starts to change the feel and behaviour of the garment significantly.

Certifications That Actually Matter

OEKO-TEX Standard 100 — tests for harmful substances in the final product. If a garment has this, it's been checked for formaldehyde, heavy metals, and other chemicals.
GOTS (Global Organic Textile Standard) — the gold standard for organic textiles. Covers growing, processing, and manufacturing.